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When (and Why) Couture Meets Retail

by Naz Damla Altan on Nov 22, 2011

Style addicts and the global fashion industry are excitedly waiting for November 17 when H&M’s latest luxury designer co-branded ‘H&M By Versace’ collection debuts in UK. On the other side of the pond, the collection hits stores on November 19.

On both dates, there will be women all around the world camping outside of H&M stores and just as many trying to kill each other over dresses once they get in. H&M has already set the rules for the hunting and shopping session: only groups of twenty will be allowed in at once, and only for fifteen minutes at a time. Additionally, there will be purchasing limits assigned to each customer.  Regardless of the lower price tags, buying a piece from the sell-out-guaranteed collection will be as hard as acquiring, say, an engraved, crocodile Versace bag.

“The high fashion meets high street” craze started back in 2004 when H&M partnered with Chanel’s legendary creative director Karl Lagerfeld for a limited edition collection. Karl Lagerfeld for H&M was a huge co-branding success: the stores were flooded with crazy crowds and the entire collection was sold out in a day across the world. Since then, H&M has partnered with Stella McCartney, Roberto Cavalli and Lanvin, successfully creating more buzz and excitement each time. Strategic alliances between high-end design houses and major retail chains have grown since:  Missoni launched a line for Target this fall, Jimmy Choo designed boots for Ugg, and Karl Lagerfeld prepared yet another ready-to-wear collection—this time for Macy’s. The designer brands that stand for ultimate luxury and exclusivity keep joining forces with fast-fashion chains to reach out to the masses.

The marketing trend that characterizes these haute-couture/fast-fashion brand alliances is “massclusivity,” which stands for “exclusivity for the masses.” A massclusivity alliance is formed when a mass brand and luxury brand come together in exchange for affordability and luxury, respectively. Clearly, these alliances increase sales and positively affect brand image for mass retailers, but it could be argued that status designers  risk their brand equity as their designs become available to larger audiences. To that, Lanvin’s creative director Alber Elvaz posits: “My collaboration with H&M was not a Lanvin dress for less project, it was about H&M going into the luxury business.”

Jorgen Andderson, marketing director of H&M, looks at things from the fashion consumer’s point of view: “You can dress from head to toe in Gucci if you like—that proves you’re rich, but it doesn’t prove you have taste. It is more imaginative to wear your Gucci with H&M.” Regardless, it seems that there is some inherent tension between protecting brand equity with premium customers and providing mainstream customers luxury goods.

On a final note, as much as I love two iconic fashion brands coming together, I can’t stop wondering what will be next… Dior for Wal-Mart? Or even Gordon Ramsey for Kraft?

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